There are two doors on the project, and the are completely different. The door on the hood is glazed and shaped to match the arched top.
I start by putting a rebate (rabbet) along one edge of all the pieces, including the straight parts of the arch. That will be where the glass is installed later. I used my wooden moving fillister plane. I built a new adjustable sticking board (place to put your boards while you “stick” or make the moulding). I’ll be using that more in the future, but it was a good time to make it.
There are two ways to join the corners. You can either use a mortise and tenon joint or a bridle joint. I wouldn’t use a cope and stick style like with a matched set of router bits (kitchen cabinet doors) because they really aren’t durable enough. I like these bridle joints. The photo above is the joint before I pare it down flush. I purposely make it long because that’s easier to fix than a little short.
Next I glued it up. Note that the top is not completely cut yet because it would be too fragile otherwise. I used hot hide glue for this but chose to clamp it up to make sure it stayed tight while the glue cured. The hot hide glue is amazing stuff (and not too stinky – no complaints from the family unit.).
The next part went pretty well, carving in the rebate along the arched top. It went much quicker than I thought it would. Carving gouge to form the curve, bench chisel to rough out the rebate then finish with the router plane. About 10 minutes work.
Finally I added a small thumbnail along the inside of the opening. Similar to adding the rebate on the back, I put a small rebate along the inside, knocked off the corner with a gouge and then cleaned it up with a custom scraper (similar to the openings on the side of the hood a few days ago).
Next time I get back to the project I’ll adjust the size to fit and add the cross-banded veneer detail to give it some visual interest. It will be placed on a sort of diagonal, radiating from the center of the clock dial.